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The Internet - Practical and Better - Is Back
National Jeweler Editorial - Page 20

7/16/2003

Because online shoppers can move so easily from retailer to retailer, price is indisputably a factor. Yehuda, with its market position of offering clarity-enhanced diamonds at significantly lower prices than untreated diamonds of similar appearance, is launching a consumer site to exploit that strength. Like Jewelry.com, the site will not sell directly but will drive shoppers to affiliated retailers. Yehuda says it will spend $1 million over the next year on advertising to attract shoppers to the site.

Just months ago, the word “Internet” wasn’t uttered in polite society. The subject was taboo, and any abject souls unfortunate enough to be connected with it were pariahs. Men could pick fights in bars by referring to someone’s mother as a Webmaster.
Pre- and post-2000 played out a classical case study of euphoric speculation in the boom-and-bust cycle of the World Wide Web gold rush. Toward the end of the manic stage, even the most conservative investors were hard-pressed to resist throwing their hats into the ring. Venture capital poured into tech start-ups characterized by business plans with attractive facades but little depth or founding in reality and, often, executives with paltry experience to execute them. But the emperor, it turned out, wasn’t wearing any clothes. And when the illusion crashed and burned, the fire was stoked by vault-loads of feel-good paper wealth. Average Americans looked on dazed as their nest eggs vanished. The Internet went from sexy to loathsome at broadband speed. In hindsight, the same people who had leaped aboard became the Net’s most acute critics. Internet jokes edged their way into stand-up routines. The lesson: Don’t hit an American in his wallet.

Dread and Anguish
The early days of the Web—let’s say 1997—were marked by dread and anguish. Traditional brick-and-mortar jewelers quickly grasped the potential for outsiders virtually anywhere on the planet to invade their local markets. I recall one nationally recognized jeweler pleading, “Can’t National Jeweler do something about the Internet?”

“Pure play” jewelry retailers appeared. The names of those dot-coms are nearly forgotten already, perhaps banished from memory—Adornis.com, Miadora.com. The premise, as in so many Web concepts, was basically, “If you build it, they will come.” And these companies based merchandising strategies on expectations that vendors would vie for inclusion. Instead, established jewelry retailers “convinced” manufacturers to circle the wagons, countering with their own “official” industry site. That site, Enjewel, succeeded in keeping the beast at bay, undoubtedly contributing to the newcomers’ downfalls. Considering that small to midsize companies invested tens of thousands of dollars in Enjewel, there was surprisingly little outcry upon its own demise. Perhaps it was a case of “money well spent.”

Also stacked against the first generation was the problem that Web users’ expectations substantially outpaced the technology. Download times were painfully slow over dial-up modems, especially for jewelry photos, a necessity for online jewelry retailing. While the concepts of escrow payments and return policies were being developed, they were far from ironed out. Moreover, consumers were yet skittish about online credit card payments. It was all just too new.

Technology Progresses
No longer. Throughout the entire boom-and-bust cycle, virtually linked communities, like worker bees or carpenter ants, droned onward, building their colonies in a distinct parallel existence to the get-rich-quick-on-the-Web crowd. Those who stuck with the Internet understood intuitively what the rest of us can see now that the shininess has worn off and the grief has passed: The communications opportunities created by this medium represent nothing less than a quantum leap forward in interactive efficacy.

Critically for jewelers, many of the same average citizens who invested and lost, while they may have resisted admitting it publicly—and probably stopped referring to it as “surfing”—continued to build their levels of online comfort. The Internet has quietly evolved. And Joe Public has learned how to use it and relies on it as casually as he does a cell phone, fax machine or voice mail.

Many users now access the Internet via high-speed connections—DSL lines provided by their local phone companies or cable modems spliced off their TV lines. And after their virginal fears of buying over the Net proved unfounded, “users” have converted to “consumers” in droves. According to the National Retail Federation, online retail sales grew 48 percent last year to $76 billion and are expected to hit $96 billion for 2003.

The time is ripe for a new generation of jewelers online. And they’re beginning to arrive, schooled by the failures of the past and much more practically attuned to the true merits of the medium. For one thing, it’s become readily apparent that many consumers prefer the ease of online over traditional shopping. How pleasant to buy birthday, anniversary or holiday gifts from an armchair in the privacy of office or home. How nice to pass the hours browsing self-purchases. How much easier to seek product information at arm’s distance rather than approach a high-pressure salesperson, or perhaps to be better armed when you do.

Birth of a New Generation
These realities seem well understood by Blue Nile, a darling of online retail analysts that is closing in on the $100 million annual sales milestone. The company claims it sells diamonds for 20 percent to 40 percent below “standard” retail price. It also is posting successive profitable quarters.

Andin International, a leading colored stone jewelry manufacturer for the majors sector, now claims more than a million users for its Jewelry.com site, a URL the company bought from the fallen Miadora.com. The company has convinced Sears, J.C. Penney, Macy’s and Zale to participate and has broadened its colored stone offerings by forging partnerships with De Beers sightholder Schachter & Namdar and gold giant Aurafin-OroAmerica. The retailers gain another tactic for driving sales, while the manufacturers add a valuable merchandising tool to offer their big customers and prioritize their product among active jewelry shoppers.

Because online shoppers can move so easily from retailer to retailer, price is indisputably a factor. Yehuda, with its market position of offering clarity-enhanced diamonds at significantly lower prices than untreated diamonds of similar appearance, is launching a consumer site to exploit that strength. Like Jewelry.com, the site will not sell directly but will drive shoppers to affiliated retailers. Yehuda says it will spend $1 million over the next year on advertising to attract shoppers to the site.

Ebay is a phenomenon in a class of its own. Not only consumers but jewelry retailers and vendors are rapidly making jewelry a top category on the auction site. The company says jewelry sales surpassed $400 million in 2002 and are expanding exponentially.

Others in the trade are using the Net for its educational value. Central to the rebranding plans unveiled in June by the Platinum Guild International is an overhaul of its consumer promotional site, scheduled for fall. PGI has also launched a new trade site and has developed an intranet that enables the association’s executives to chat, check one another’s schedules and share documents from their far-flung worldwide offices.

The World Gold Council operates a high-impact consumer promotional site from its international headquarters in London, and the U.S. office plans a fall launch of a trade site that will offer extensive marketing, product and sales training information.
On the independent jeweler side, consider Shirley Beck of the Sapphire Gallery, Philipsburg, Mont. Beck says her site is actually taught by the state as a case study. More important, beyond driving store traffic, the company sells jewelry on it.
Don’t be duped into believing the Internet has had its rise and fall. Today’s savvy consumers rely on Web sites to make purchasing decisions whether buying online or in-store. If you have no online presence, you’re losing and will continue to lose sales to online jewelers, three-quarters of whom are making profits, according to the NRF. Especially now, given the state of the economy, that missed opportunity presents a bitter pill no one wishes to swallow.

Whitney Sielaff
Publisher/Editorial Director
wsielaff@nationaljeweler.com
(646) 654-4924

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